Shoe welting



Sept' 11, 1956 w. c. VIZARD 2,762,135

SHOE WELTING Filed Sept. 20, 1952 United States Patent O SHOE WELTINGWilliam C. Vizard, Brockton, Mass., assignor to Barbour Welting Company,Brockton, Mass., a corporation of Massachusetts Application September20, 1952, Serial No. 310,643

2 Claims. (Cl. 36-78) 'Ihis invention relates to the manufacture ofwelting, and pertains more particularly to improvements in prewelts andthe method of making the same.

The principal purpose of the invention is to produce a welt strip which,by the relatively simple and economical operations characteristic of themanufacture of conventional prewelt shoes may be readily embodied in ashoe having the sturdiness, fit, and dressy appearance of a Goodyearwelt shoe. The use of the improved welt eliminates the troublesomeoperations of Goodyear lasting and Welt beating; and the preferred modeof attachment of the welt to the vamp avoids gaps or separations at thewelt seam, for the vamp may be stitched to the base of the welt behind ashoulder of the welt which closely hugs the vamp and hides the seam, inthe completed shoe.

These advantages are obtained by providing a welt having a longitudinalshoulder formed by channeling the welt surface and bending up a bead ofange extending along one side of the channel substantially parallel tothe outer edge of the welt extension. The relatively short vamp marginof a shoe may thus be stitched to the base of the welt in the channelbehind the shoulder, with the edge of said vamp margin preferablyabutting a second shoulder of the welt, spaced inwardly from the lirstshoulder at the opposite side of the channel.

These features of the improved welt and its process of manufacture areillustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. l is a perspective View of a welt strip illustrating the cuttingsmade to form a channel, an outer bead shoulder and an inner guideshoulder in the upper snrface of the welt;

Fig. 2 is a View similar to Fig. 1 illustrating a further step in theformation of the bead shoulder;

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary perspective of the beaded welt of Fig. 2, with aportion of the vamp stitched in the channel of the welt behind the beadshoulder;

Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 2 showing a modified welt; and

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary section of a completed shoe made with the weltof Fig. 3, before the last-is removed.

As illustrated in Figs. l to 3, the improved welt is produced from arelatively wide llet 11 which is grooved at 12 and 13, and channeled bycuts 14 and 15 to form a channel 16 and a exible ap 17 which may be bentup- Wardly at the groove 12 and then downwardly upon itself at thegroove 13, to provide the upstanding bead shoulder 18. A triangularribbon 19 is preferably cut away from the inner surface from the apextension 20 of the twoply bead, as shown in Fig. 2, to provide aninclined shoulder along the inner side of the bead. The flap extension2l) of the bead 18 extends to the bottom of the channel 16 an'd iscemented thereto and to the opposed surface of the upturned flap 17,thereby reinforcing the bead 18 and supporting it so that its outersurface 21 is substantially at right angles to the welt extension 22..

4Patented Sept. -11-, 1956 The cut 14 forms a second longitudinalshoulder 23, spaced from and extending substantially parallel to thebead shoulder, along the inner side of the channel 16. The shoulder 23provides a guide for the edge of a vamp to which the improved welt isstitched as shown in Fig. 3.

Another ribbon or strip 24 is preferably cut away from the upper surfaceof the welt, along its inner margin, either at the stage of Fig. l (asshown) or at subsequent stage in the formation of the welt. Thethickness of the inner margin 25 of the improved welt is thus desirablyreduced. The removed ribbons 19 and 24 may be employed in making otherforms of shoe Welting.

The new welting is produced in long strips in accordance with commonpractice, and may then be cut into sections of such length as to extendaround the margin of the Vamp of a shoe. The Welt is attached to thevalnp by placing the edge of the lined vamp 26 against the innershoulder 23 of the welt, and then stitching the vamp margin to the baseof the welt by a seam 27, adjacent the bead shoulder 18, so that thevamp hugs the inclined inner surface of the bead, in the completed shoeindicated in Fig. 5.

The prewelted vamp is lasted to an insole 28 by pulling in the weltmargin 25 and securing it with cement, staples or tacks (not shown inFig. 5). When so lasted, the welt will lie substantially parallel to theinsole, pro- Viding a flat bottom, after the central cavity is levelledWith a suitable bottom filling material 29, for the application of theinsole 30. The outsole may then be applied and stitched to the welt bythe outseam 31.

in the modified form of welt illustrated in Fig. 4, the bea'd 32 of thewelt strip 33 is formed by a single upstanding flap, channeled andturned upwardly from said strip and by a separate wedge-shaped leatherstrip 34, cemented thereto, to provide a sturdy reinforced beadshoulder. The inner margin of the welt strip is preferably slashed at 35to afford increased lexibility. Otherwise, the welt strip 33 is made aspreviously explained in connection with Figs. 1 to 3, and is applied tothe vamp as indicated in Fig. 3.

I claim:

1. A shoe welting comprising a laterally extending welt extension, alaterally extending inseam ange and a longitudinally extended,approximately rectangular channel, said channel being disposed in theupper surface of said welting intermediate said welt extension andinseam ange, an upstanding bead disposed along the edge of said channeladjacent said welt extension, and a sharply dened shoulder disposedalong the opposite edge of said channel and having its inner facedisposed at substantially right angles to the bottom surface of saidchannel, the top of said shoulder being disposed in a plane below thetop of the upstanding bead and providing a gauge for the marginal edgeof the upper of a shoe when said welting is incorporated in a shoe.

2. A shoe welting comprising a welt strip having a laterally extendingWelt extension along one of its margins, a laterally extending inseamflange along its opposite margin, and an approximately rectangularchannel in its upper surface intermediate said flange and extension, anupstanding bead disposed along the edge or" said channel adjacent saidwelt extension, the face of said bead adjacent said extension disposedat substantially right angles (References on following page) UNITEDSTATES PATENTS White `uly 11, 1911 Lyon Aug. 6, 1929 Gilson Nov. 12,1929 Heft Aug. 16, 1932 Goddu Ian. 1, 1935 Valentine Sept. 1, 1936 4Plummer Oct. 19, 1937 Vizard June 7, 1938 Adams Nov. 15, 1938 Vizard LMay 21, 1940 FOREIGN PATENTS France Aug. 13, 1932 Great Britain Mar. 9,1933

